UAE climber becomes first Arab to conquer world's 3rd tallest mountain
Saeed Al Memari makes history with 8,586-metre Kanchenjunga ascent
DUBAI: Saeed Al Memari has made history by becoming the first Arab to conquer Kanchenjunga, the world’s third-highest peak at 8,586 metres.
The Emirati mountaineer completed the four-day climb after beginning his expedition from the base camp last Thursday, eventually reaching the summit on Sunday. With the UAE flag in hand, Al Memari also raised a portrait of President His Highness Sheikh Mohamed Bin Zayed Al Nahyan, the Ministry of Defence flag, and the emblem of his sponsor, Calidus Holding, marking the momentous occasion.
The Kanchenjunga expedition, however, was marred by tragedy. A 63-year-old French climber, Margareta Morin, died during her ascent above Camp 4. According to Yogendra Tamang of Peak 15 Adventure, Morin succumbed to health complications exacerbated by the altitude. Bad weather has since delayed the recovery of her body. In a separate incident on the same mountain, British climber Adrian Michael Hayes was rescued after suffering from altitude sickness while descending.
Who is Saeed Al Memari?
Al Memari’s latest feat is a continuation of an extraordinary mountaineering career. He was the first UAE national to summit Mount Everest – twice – choosing the more challenging route from Tibet for at least one of his climbs.
In July 2022, he added K2 in Pakistan, the world’s second-highest and most dangerous mountain, to his list of accomplishments, becoming the first Emirati to scale the notoriously deadly peak.
His list of achievements includes completing the “Explorer Grand Slam,” a prestigious record that involves climbing the Seven Summits – the highest mountains on each of the seven continents – as well as reaching the North and South Poles. In total, Al Memari has climbed over 100 peaks worldwide.
He described his survival on K2 as one of the most harrowing experiences of his life. At one point, he lost contact with his team and faced the lethal terrain alone. “Ninety percent of it is mental,” he recalled, crediting his survival to mental preparedness and prayers from his family.
His global campaign, “Peak for Peace,” began as a tribute to the UAE’s efforts to promote peace worldwide. The initiative gathers messages of unity from the people he meets and will eventually culminate in a book featuring reflections from each country he climbs in.
Beyond mountains, Al Memari has set his sights on iconic landmarks. He had announced plans to scale the Burj Khalifa and base-jump from the top during Dubai’s extravagant New Year fireworks on 31 December 2024. However, the stunt was postponed after Emaar Properties, the tower’s developer, deemed it too risky during the high-volume pyrotechnic display.
“It was my dream, and I was working on it for a long time,” said the 34-year-old Fujairah-born adventurer, who had designed a parachute featuring images of UAE leaders and messages welcoming the year 2025. He planned to make the jump visible to thousands watching live, both on-site and on television.